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Any good skater would have gone through multiple different set-ups. It can take me a while to get used to a new boot, plate, truck or wheel so be sure to be patient with your adjustment period. We all have individual needs. Your set-ups should be customized to suit the personal style of the skater. Most skaters own more than one pair of skates, plates and trucks and many pairs of wheels, bushings, bearings and other interchangeable parts. It is important to experiment and figure out what works best for you individually. Skate breakdown and advanced hardware. 1. BOOT This simply refers to the boot or shoe that is mounted to the plate. Many skaters customise their own skates by using regular shoes such as Vans. If you are going to go down this path it is important that you choose a sturdy boot (preferably leather) with a strong, supportive sole. 2. EYELETS The holes you lace skates through. This also comes in hook form. 3. LACE The cord passed through eyelets or hooks on opposite sides of a shoe and pulled tight and fastened. 4. TOE STOP Urethane devices screwed into the front of the plate to allow a skate to come to a complete stop while rolling fakie. 5. TOE PROTECTOR This is a non-compulsory, but highly recommended, accessorie for most skaters. Its sole purpose it to protect the front of a skaters boot. 6. PLATE This is the component of a skate that is physically attached to the boot with mounting hardware. This consists of the plate itself (with 4 or 6 mounting holes) and it supports the kingpins and pivot cups. This is the basis of a roller skate. Once you add the truck with all its components you have a roller skate. This is also the base that all sliders are connected to. 7. KINGPIN The kingpins are partially threaded bolts that protrude from the front and back of skate plate. This is the base that holds the trucks together. Connected to it are the bushings, retainers, and the truck, and this is held together with a nut. The tightness or looseness of this determines the ease of turning. These will often need to be altered if using wide trucks to enable grinding. 8. PIVOT CUP A hollowed rubber cup that rests inside the base plate, this supports the truck hanger at the pivot point, allowing it to turn smoothly in both directions. 9. TRUCK The truck hanger is fastened to the kingpin and rests in the pivot cup of the base-plate. It contains the axle on which your wheels are mounted and provides the surface we so relentlessly grind on. CIB have developed Grind Trucks compatible with a wide range of Rollerskate plates. Some skaters choose to alter Skateboard and Penny Trucks, however, this requires a lot of DIY know how. 10. BUSHING/CUSHION Also known as cushions, bushings are urethane rings that slip onto your king pin. There are two bushings per truck, one above and one below where the hanger sits. They come in many grades which determine how soft or hard it will be to adjust the turning radius and the response of the truck itself. Tighter bushings mean stiffer trucks, while loose bushings make for easier turning. 11. BUSHING RETAINER/WASHER A retainer is a simple metal casing that sits either side of the bushings. This helps protect the plate and the bushings. 12. NUTS Also known as axle nut or kingpin nut. The nut is threaded on to the truck axle to hold the wheel in place. The same applies to the kingpin. 13. AXLE The axle extends from the truck base. This is the foundation that your bearings rotate around. One wheel is inserted on either end and held in place by the axle nut. These protrude a couple of inches on either side. Regular truck axels are much shorter than skateboard trucks. 14. BEARING WASHER This is a small metal circle which provides the service of protecting your bearings. Not a requirement, but definitely recommended. 15. BEARING An anti-friction device called a bearing that is inserted between each wheel and axle. This is what allows the wheels to spin freely. They consist of 6, 7 or 8 balls enclosed in races between two shields encased in a shell. There are 2 bearings per wheel. 16. WHEEL The typical size range of wheels for street and vert skating ranges between 45-60mm. We recommend a harder wheel for speed. The harder the wheel, the faster you will go and the less you will stick to the ramp for tricks like slides and grinds. CIB have developed a line of wheels made to help you reach your top speed with minimal effort. The sizes range from 55-58 and hardnesses from 98-101. To find out more check out the CIB wheel line. 17. MOUNTING HARDWARE This refers to any bolt or nut used in the application of putting the skate together. 18. SLIDERS Also known as a grind or slide block. There are a variety of custom and homemade versions out in the world. A slider is made up of 1-2 pieces of HDP (high density plastic) per skate. These are mostly custom-built and come in all varieties of shapes and designs and have been mounted in all manner of ways. The purpose of this is to allow the skater to perform horizontal sides across coping and rails. CIB have developed two models which work on a variety of skate plates. Find out more about CIB Sliders.

Perfect for those looking to get all the gear in one go. These contain everything you will need to get up and running without any fuss. Completes come with the deck, trucks and wheels all pre assembled and will also have the griptape pre applied. Completes can range anywhere from £30 – £120. The price paid reflects on the quality of the hardware used. Starting at 7.0" wide (recommended for younger children) completes are a great way to get the basics down. The average deck width is 8.0". If you're a beginner we recommend you think about the board size before purchasing as a 7.5" - 7.75" may be better suited. WHY BUY A COMPLETE Completes come ready to shred, the board is good to go from the moment it is received. They`re a great starting point for new skaters who want to get a feel for the sport or those who are looking to progress from their lower end setup. With completes, the components will all be brand specific and therefore cost a bit less than buying everything separately. Once you progress a bit further you can easily customise the setup. You can buy your own parts as you go along (wheels, bearings and trucks) or even upgrade your deck. HOW MUCH SHOULD I SPEND? When choosing a skateboard complete its best to view it from the same perspective as you would for buying any sporting equipment, with a lower price you sacrifice quality. You can break this down in to about three price ranges. £30-£50 – you will be getting a board that is suited more towards a beginner. The deck itself will weigh a bit more than average due to the standard of wood used. £50-£75 - you will get a good quality board that is both lightweight and fast. The rider will be able to develop their skills on this board. An experienced skater would be quite happy to ride a board in this price range without feeling that the board is of inferior quality. £75 and above – at this price range you are buying a quality board from a renowned skateboard manufacturer. The components will be manufactured to a higher standard. Some of the larger brands make high end completes, these are established and well known companies who also sponsor riders, organise events, release DVD`s and are featured in skate mags. CRUISERS Cruisers come in various shapes and sizes ranging from old school surf inspired boards to the newer fusions between classic and modern designs. When choosing a cruiser you will need to know a few important factors such as width, length and flex. Flex - This is the amount the board will bend under your feet, not only does it make the ride more comfortable by absorbing vibrations and bumps, it also makes the journey a lot of fun, too much flex however can mean a loss of stability. Width - Wider boards are often easier to learn on but can be a bit slower than a narrower board. Good for those with larger feet, as the more board under you the more stability you will have. Length - Boards come in various lengths, they will generally range from around 22" to as high as 35". These boards generally have larger softer wheels, perfect for riding over rougher terrain. DECKS Most skateboards are constructed in the same way consisting of 7 plies of Canadian maple. This is a hardwearing and durable wood which still allows for a degree of flexibility. There are some instances where different materials are used in the deck construction, for example: 7-Ply Maple - The classic skateboard deck construction, 7 plies of Canadian maple bound together with glue. Some of our decks use resin glue which is stronger and makes the decks stiffer. 8-Ply Maple - A stronger construction than 7-ply, 8 ply is usually made up of 8 thinner plies, that when bound together create a stronger deck. P2 Decks - P2 or Pro-2 construction decks are the 'next level' of deck and feature an oval shaped Kevlar Fibre reinforced maple veneer that when bound together with six thinner plies creates a stronger more resilient deck that has spring loaded pop. A lighter and thinner deck than most - the P2 decks are becoming more and more popular these days. Technology Decks - Other different technology decks we carry here are Double Impact and Impact Support Constructions. All of these boards are made up of different kevlar/maple & carbon constructions and make a lighter stronger deck. Some of these even come with a breakage warranty, so if you break decks regularly it may be worthwhile checking these boards out. SIZES Skateboard decks come in a various range of sizes the average width sizes tend to fall between about 7.75" to 8.25". The size you chose will help with certain skating styles, but does not determine them. Smaller decks are normally better for flip tricks due to their thinner width, these are normally preferred by people who skate street. Whereas wider decks 8" up tend to be better for people who skate transition and vert due to their wider width. NOSE AND TAIL Nose – This is the front of your deck, it will be slightly longer and wider than the tail. Tail – This is the back of the deck, it will be thinner and shorter than the nose CONCAVE The sides of the board between the nose and tail are curved upwards; this gives riders more control and stiffens the flex for added durability. Different amounts of concave can suit different riders - this is all down to trial and error over time you will get a feel for what you need in terms of concave. POP The [pop" of a deck is the way in which it reacts to the downward force applied to it. For example during an Ollie when the tail hits the ground the board bounces back, this ability to push back against the impact force is what is referred to as pop. A deck`s pop is reliant on its construction; most brands have different gradients of pop. The best way to find what`s suited to you is the age old method of trial and error. TRUCKS There are a few things to make a note of: Truck Width You will want the length to be within ¼" of the deck`s width. Different companies have different measurements. You can match your truck size to your deck with the following chart: 7.5" - 7.75" 129 - Independent 145 - Thunder 5.0 - Venture/Royal/Tensor/Theive 3.5 - Krux 7.75" - 8.25" 139 – Independent 147 – Thunder 5.25 – Venture/Royal/Tensor/Theive 4.0 – Krux 8.25" - 8.5" 149 - Independent 149 - Thunder 5.0 - Krux TRUCK HEIGHT Trucks vary in height; lower trucks are better suited to flip trips whereas higher trucks are better at accommodating larger wheels for faster skating. LOW - Provides extra stability for flip tricks, designed for small wheels (50-53mm wheel size recommended) MID - Good all-around profile for street and park (52-55mm wheel size recommended) HIGH- Great for cruising and carving, designed for larger wheels (55mm+ wheel size recommended) BUSHINGS These are the rubber rings attached to the truck and determine the responsiveness and sharpness of your movement. Harder bushings provide more stability but less responsive turning, where as softer bushings allow for more fluid and responsive turning. Bushings are included with trucks when bought, however over time may wear away or rip. RISERS Risers have two uses; they help relieve stress from the trucks, which helps reduce pressure cracks forming. More importantly, risers help stop wheel bite, which occurs when wheels rub against the board when turning sharply, causing the board to stop abruptly. Most risers are about 1/8" high. If you have larger wheels, you'll want higher risers. On the other hand, if your wheels are small (52mm) then you may not need risers at all. WHEELS Skateboard wheels come in a range of colours, sizes and hardness, There are two main areas to keep in mind when choosing a set of wheels. Diameter - how tall the wheel is. This is measured in millimetres (mm) for skateboard wheels. Durometer - how hard the wheels are. Most skateboard wheels use what's called the "a-scale". This refers to how hard the wheel is, the higher the number the harder the wheel will be. For instance, you'll see the hardness of the wheels written "95a" for an average street skateboarding wheel. Softer wheels can be all the way down to 70a, or even lower. The average skater will generally be happy with wheels from 52mm - 54mm, with a hardness of 99a. Smaller wheels are better suited to park skating and for those who prefer flip tricks. They are a little more precise than larger wheels. Wheels with a larger diameter such as 65mm upwards will have a lower durometer rating and will be best suited towards speed but will offer a smoother ride. These are typically used on cruisers and longboards. 50-53mm - Small slower wheels, stable for trick riding and smaller riders skating street, skate parks and bowls. 53-58mm - Average wheel size for beginners and bigger riders skating street, skate parks, bowls and vert. 59mm+ - Specialty riders skating longboards, old-school boards, downhill and dirt boards; made for speed and rougher surfaces. BEARINGS Most bearings have an ABEC rating, this only rates the precision of a bearing. Plus, the more precise the bearing is, the weaker they usually are. The higher ABEC rated bearings such as ABEC 9 are made with more precision however are more likely to break due to their delicate nature, ABEC 5 & ABEC 7 are the preferred quality for most skaters due to their durability and precision. Some companies do not use the ABEC rating, such as Bones Bearings whose bearings are `Skate Rated`. These bearings do not follow the ABEC ratings because they are superior in quality. GRIPTAPE This is the sandpaper-like layer that is on the top of the deck (find out more). One sheet is all you need to cover your board. This provides the traction needed to perform flat ground tricks. We stock many different brands of griptape, which you chose comes down to personal preference. HARDWARE Skateboard hardware, is used to connect the skateboard trucks to the skateboard deck. Skateboard hardware refers to the nuts and bolts used when building a skateboard. The screws can have an Allen or Phillips head. Skateboard bolts come in many different sizes and often include one different coloured bolt so that you can mark the nose of the deck. Skateboard hardware sets include 8 bolts and 8 locknuts. We stock a wide range of bolts, which size you will need depends on if you use risers or not. 7/8" to 1" hardware - no riser 1" to 1 1/8" hardware - 1/8" riser 1 1/4" hardware - 1/4" riser 1 1/2" hardware - 1/2" riser Another piece of hardware that is essential are kingpins, these are the larger bolts that attach the trucks hanger to the baseplate. Generally you will not need to replace these, however if one snaps it means the truck will be unusable. PROTECTION Skating is dangerous. It`s not wrestling-with-a-bear dangerous, but it`s not too far off! Now we`ve established that, let`s think about the advantage of having the correct protection. Due to the nature of skateboarding everyone is going to bail at some point and when you do; having wrist guards, knee pads and a helmet is going to make all the difference. Not only will you be softening the blow, it will also instil you with the confidence to get back up and give that trick another go. SKATE TOOLS Skate tools are designed to be usable on all the hardware that comes with your skateboard. They come in various shapes but the most common being the [T-Tool" named due to its shape. They will always contain an allen key and a Phillips headed screwdriver for adjusting bolts and will have the appropriate grooves for adjusting axel nuts, kingpins and 1" bolts. MAINTENANCE Maintaining your skateboard is a vital way of ensuring that all your hardware lasts you as long as you need it to. There isn`t too much you can do in the way of the deck, as due to the nature of skateboarding it will inevitably take a beating. What you can do however is to help prolong it by avoiding skating in rain. This will get the board damp and loosen the glue that binds the plies together eventually causing delamination. Maintaining your bearings is also a key part of overall skateboard maintenance. This is a little more complicated procedure and if not done correctly can result in ruining your bearings. Many people try to increase the speed of their bearings by adding a lubricant such as WD40 and in some cases cooking oil. DO NOT DO THIS, this will cause the bearings to slow down over use and in many cases cause them to jam. You will need to a non sticky solvent to clean your bearings; I would suggest something like acetone to get the dirt off of them. Place the bearings in a container and shake vigorously for about two minutes. Leave the bearings to dry (you may also use a hair dryer). You will need to add a lubricant at this point, we suggest using Bones Speed Cream.